It seems
that canals have the same fatal attraction to Norfolk
people as do railways. Ivan Cane drew an audience of
well over fifty.The Methodist projector had a real
workout – we had reached slide 53 before we even
stopped for refreshments. There is plenty to read on
line about this unusual canal so here are a few bits
of the talk that stuck in my mind.
This is the
only canal entirely within Norfolk and one might
wonder why it is there. Answer: North Walsham needed
coal. It came from Newcastle, was unloaded onto
beaches, carted to rivers, carried by wherry until the
shallow River Ant was reached, then back on to the
carts and so to the town. Laborious and expensive. So
why not build a canal?
Time
dribbled away. Plans were not finally made until 1811
and it was another 14 years before they got on with
the job. Bedfordshire Bankers built it. Not moneyed,
but mighty men from the Bedfordshire levels, who were
capable of shifting 10 tons of clay per day per man!
Nearly 9 miles of canal, 6 locks totalling 58 feet of
drop, a number of staithes, and channels linking with
6 water mills. The whole job was done in only fourteen
months!
The canal
was described as “modern” as it was designed to be
used by wherries rather than horse-drawn barges. There
was no towpath and nowhere for horses to pass under
bridges – but a “haling” way – a path used for hauling
the wherries when the wind was low.
Like most
canals, it had a very short life. There is some
question as to whether it really was a cheaper way to
move coal. Cargoes seem to have been mainly
agricultural – corn, flour, cattle cake, bones to be
made into fertilizer at the mills. There was even a
wherry known as the cabbage wherry which delivered
that enticing cargo to Great Yarmouth!
Railways
came late to this part of Norfolk, not until 1874, but
still they ended the canal’s short commercial life. It
was auctioned-off in 1906. The last wherry cargo was
in 1934, by which time pleasure-boating was taking
over. Photos of ladies in elegant hats proved the
point. But even this did not last. Floods, wartime
deprivation and then neglect meant that by the 1950s
the locks were collapsing. By the end of the last
century the canal was slowly disappearing from the
landscape.
The finale
of the talk was about a remarkable programme of
restoration that has been under way in recent
years. Much helped by local canal-owning benefactors,
but impossible without considerable volunteering,
locks have been rebuilt, banks restored, wildlife
encouraged and the local community is making proud
recreational use of the water. There is now nothing to
stop you from paying a visit yourself. If you stop to
watch the boats then you might be mistaken for a
gongoozler, we were told.